We visited Bhutan during an inflection point. The country is simultaneously trying to maintain its heritage and culture while opening itself up to the modern world. As a result, we were given a front row seat to witness its balancing act in real time.

On one hand, Bhutan is a country with no stop lights. On the other hand, Bhutan harnessed its massive hydroelectric power to become one of the world’s top miners of Bitcoin.

Nowhere else in the world is this attempt at cultural preservation alongside technological innovation being pursued more diligently and thoughtfully.

Bhutan’s Mastermind

The architect of Bhutan’s future is the King, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, known as the 5th Druk Gyalpo (Dragon King). Known as “People’s King,” he is beloved throughout the country.

In fact, regular folks, like our driver Kuen Zang, wore a portrait of the King’s son, 10-year-old Crown Prince Jigme Namgyel Wangchuck, on his lapel. (We initially thought this was a photo of his son, but no, it was the younger royal.)

In 2008, the year the current King assumed the throne, Bhutan transitioned from an absolute monarchy to a democratic constitutional monarchy. As a result, the King remains head of state, with the government now run by a two-party parliamentary democracy.

Most of the country’s assets are held in trust by the royal family. Despite this vast personal wealth, the King’s economic focus is on building the social and economic well-being of the country’s 800,000 citizens over individual capitalistic wealth.

Spirituality & Sustainability

To help us better understand the transformation taking place in Bhutan, we brought in three high-level speakers during our Nomad Life Adventure last month. We were given a private audience and primer on three topics shaping the country’s trajectory, including:

1. Gross National Happiness

Guest Speakers: Sangye Chophel and Chencho Tshering, Director General, Office of the Cabinet Affairs and Strategic Coordination (OCASC).

Gross National Happiness (GNH) was conceived in 1974 by the 4th King of Bhutan (the current King’s father), declaring that happiness is “more important than Gross Domestic Product.” As a result, the Kingdom now measures collective happiness, emphasizing harmony with nature and cultural values over traditional economic metrics like GDP.

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GNH’s emphasis on wellbeing reflect the Buddhist tradition of compassion and respect for all living things. Here are the 9 domains of the Happiness Index, which is a weighted score.

Our speakers presented the latest findings from the 2022 GNH Survey Report. And while some of us (well, me actually) were critical of the lack of scientific rigor in the survey process, we were all amazed at the candor of the presentation.

The report concluded that 93.6% of Bhutan’s population enjoys sufficiency (deeply happy, extensively happy, narrowly happy) vs. unhappy in at least 50% of the GNH conditions.

Yet while the summary was positive, one finding stuck out as potentially problematic for the government: an inverse relationship between economic advancement and cultural development was clear—the higher the income, the lower the emphasis on culture.

In addition, our speakers admitted that participants (~8,000 or nearly 1% of Bhutan’s population) may have lacked a baseline understanding of the survey. For instance, in the more remote provinces, illiteracy is still rife, so the survey was administered orally and had to be interpreted by the administrator. I found this statement surprising since I didn’t expect there to be a high level of illiteracy in the country.

I also want to note that critics of GNH cite the philosophy as a propaganda tool to distract from the government’s human rights abuses against Bhutanese residents of Nepali origin and Hindu faith, a not insignificant 10% of the population. Source: Human Rights Watch

2. Sovereign Bitcoin Mining

Guest Speaker: Ngawang Norbu, CEO, Bitcoin Green Digital Limited

This presentation by the head of Bhutan’s Bitcoin mining operation was truly fascinating. Just a few years ago, Bhutan was the #4 Bitcoin miner in the world, leveraging its substantial hydroelectric power.

In the last 18 months, the government has sold 70% of its Bitcoin. As of last month, April 2026, the kingdom’s holdings dropped from 13,000 BTC to 3,954 BTC, with $215.7 million sold this year alone. In addition, the country’s last mining inflow over $100,000 was more than a year ago. Source: MEXC

This is interesting since Bhutan is the only sovereign-level holder of BTC to be visibly liquidating.

A few reasons may be contributing to the sell-off:

• Margins on small-scale sovereign mining have compressed, so the country can earn more by selling electricity to India.

• Geo-politics might be a factor as well. India is Bhutan’s largest development and trading partner, as well as a key security partner. Bhutan’s Indian ties help balance the attention of Bhutan’s northern neighbor, China, including the boundary with the Tibet Autonomous Region. The relationship between Bhutan and India is so tight that the Bhutan ngultrum is pegged to the Indian rupee at parity, with the two currencies interchangeable.

• Proceeds from the sale of BTC are being used for the development of the GMC.

3. Gelephu Mindfulness City

Speaker: Tshering Dolker, Director of Tourism, GMC

The Gelephu Mindfulness City (GMC) is a special administrative region that promises “the world a different path of development, one where traditional Bhutanese values of spirituality and harmony with nature, blend with innovation, technology, and economic vibrancy.”

Think: an international satellite city like Dubai, but with sustainability, instead of consumerism, as the core philosophy.

The vision of GMC is to house 1 million Bhutanese and foreign residents by 2060. The city is to be a major transit hub, to compete with Singapore, and includes the country’s first railway connecting the city with Assam, India.

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Using renewable energy, the project is currently focused on completing the Gelephu International Airport by 2029. This is the first major project in GMC’s “Diamond Strategy,” which initially sees the satellite city using a One Country, Two Systems model.

The first phase casts a wide net, aiming to attract an international community, including tech giants like Apple and Google. The second part of the diamond is the coming together of the two systems to integrate the city with the local population and more Bhutanese culture.

The Future is Bright(ish)

All told, there are big plans for this small country of less than 1 million. And kudos to the kingdom for reimaging its place in the world and how it can integrate its distinctly Buddhist values into an economic growth model. I applaud the country’s imagination and am looking forward to seeing how the country continues to progress.

But Bhutan also faces a number of challenges, including: (Source: The Guardian)

• High emigration, with 1.5% of Bhutanese moving to Australia to work and study

• Rising youth unemployment, standing at 28.6% in 2022

• Women in the workplace have declined by more than 15% in the last 5 years

• 28% illiteracy in 2022 (although youth literacy is over 90%)

• 1 in 8 Bhutanese live in poverty

We also saw a bit of this new reality on the ground, with teenagers sporting hoodies in place of the traditional gao for men and kira for women. English is now the primary language taught in schools, and K-Pop has a firm grip since the introduction of cell phones.

I look forward to visiting again and watching as the country navigates not only a new path for itself, but a new way to exist in a modern world.

Additional Resources:

• “Bhutan building Mindfulness City to create jobs, lure young Bhutanese home from abroad,” 60 Minutes episode.

• “One of the World’s Most Remote Nations Opens Up,” BBC article, April 2026

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 130+ countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to learn more about nomad life? Get the guide “Explore the World with Nomads: 50 Practical Tips, Interviews & Insights.”

Download the guide here ⬇️

Brad writes the Substack Odyssey & Meaning, and it’s—hands down—one of my favorites. Equal parts history + adventure + cultural sensitivity, he never fails to deliver a fresh perspective on a remote place.

Take, for instance, his recent post “Hostile Beauty in Bioko” about his time exploring this small island off the coast of Equatorial Guinea. His piece weaves together island creation myths, insights on how the Bubi people survived (or, unfortunately, didn’t survive) attacks over the years, and a sampling of the island’s rich flora and fauna.

Reading Brad’s work is a treat for both the mind and the senses.

9 Fun Facts

• First Name: Brad

• Age Range: 50s

• Nationality: USA

• Nomadic Stance: Part-time

• Last Corporate Job: Exploration Geologist, working in Colombia

• Current Jobs: Geological consultant, historical researcher, writer

• Favorite Country: For the overall experience, Iran

• Next Stop: Sri Lanka

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Fulfilling

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2 Questions

1) You often go to countries where few venture: Suriname, Cameroon. What draws you?

Part of it is authenticity (I know, loaded term, so will explain). Countries that fall well outside of normal tourist routes aren’t trying to soften the edges and make it comfortable or recognizable for foreigners.

You just jump in, start figuring out how things work, and you end up learning a lot about the way people live there. You are unlikely to see souvenir shops, spas, or boat tour hawkers on the corner.

The people you meet are more likely to be genuinely curious as to why you are there. This leads to engaging conversations. How likely is it to start talking to a local on a street in Prague and end up meeting their family? Much less likely than in Cameroon.

The bonus is that you can go for days without seeing a ‘Western’ face.

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2) Does being a scientist (geologist) shape how you see the world?

This has definitely shaped me in very specific ways. First, I usually teach myself the geology of a region before I go visit, and I try to visit sites of geologic interest.

I understand culture, history, and even religion as partially influenced by geography, geology, climate, and resources. Mountain ranges separate languages. Silver trade links two empires, such that now, a thousand years later, their cultures have intertwined. The rich soil of a tropical volcanic island means the inhabitants can feed themselves and produce art rather than focus on trade, while the occupants of a barren desert island become expert traders and seafarers.

These aren’t just random historical facts. They demonstrate patterns of how societies have evolved into what we see today.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

Update: Here’s the LIVE link. Thanks for joining!

📣 Calling all nomads, nomads-in-spirit, and travelers of all stripes!

• 📱 Event: 15-minute Substack LIVE

• 📅 Date: Wednesday, May 13

• 🕘 Time: 9:00 PM EST

• 🚫 Topic: My Anti-Oligarch Stance

• 📍 Save the Dave: I’ll send out a reminder on Notes 15 minutes before

asked about my anti-oligarch stance—my decision not to support Amazon, Facebook, Insta, or Twitter/X—which I mentioned in passing during our last Nomad Life Community call.

Because the answer is nuanced, I thought I’d do a 15-min “Ask A Nomad Q&A” on Substack LIVE to answer.

🤔 If you’re curious how and why I’m taking this position, tune in or DM me for the replay!

❓ Have a burning question too? Ask-away and I’ll be sure and answer in our chat, via a LIVE, or during one of our Nomad Life Meetups.

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Author of Nomad Life, Erin was christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic. She has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. As a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series, she offers travel safety tips, ethical adventures, and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to learn more about nomad life? Get the guide “Explore the World with Nomads: 50 Practical Tips, Interviews & Insights.”

Download the guide here ⬇️

• Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

• Read Part 2: Rotten Inside & Out

• Read Part 3: Man Overboard!

Yo ho ho and a bottle of rum! Eleven days in and I’m telling you, a stiff drink would not have gone astray at this point.

Day 12: Earlier, I mentioned we didn’t have the expected wind on our side, so we were constantly relying on our one remaining engine. Consequently, we were going through our fuel at a rapid clip.

To rectify the situation, the Captain (after deciding not to refuel in Sri Lanka) decided to “nip into the Nicobar Islands” and purchase fuel and eat an Indian curry. We were all pretty much in agreement re: this detour. Not only did we need the fuel, but we were also getting pretty hungry since most of our food had spoiled.

Where are the Nicobar Islands? Says everyone

What we didn’t know (but should have known) was that visiting the Nicobar Islands is prohibited. Not only is it restricted to all foreigners, but it’s also off-limits to most Indian nationals, too. Only Indian citizens with a special permit can visit.

Here’s the entry in the sailors’ bible, the Pilot Book, which we maybe should’ve read:

No One Likes a Sneak

After nearly two weeks on the water, excited to see land and tempted by a flavorful meal, we approached Great Nicobar’s main harbor.

Upon approach, the Captain elected not to notify the Indian authorities on Channel 16, the marine radio reserved for distress calls and monitored 24 hours a day by coast guards around the world.

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In hindsight, we should’ve radioed to let the authorities know that we were leaving international waters and entering their sovereign territory. But our plan was to sneak in instead.

As it turns out, sneaking in was never going to happen since the Indian Coast Guard intercepted us as soon as we crossed into their territory. Intercepted is, perhaps, too pleasant a term. We were boarded by the Indian Coast Guard with guns drawn.

As it happened, the Indian military was on high alert since it was August 14, the eve of India’s Independence Day. Because we were sneaking under the cover of darkness, they thought we were terrorists. Oops.

Under Arrest

As the Indian Coast Guard pulled alongside, they demanded to know if we had weapons aboard, how many people, and specifically, how many men were among us.

They boarded us, escorted our vessel into the harbor, and placed us under boat arrest while they interrogated us about our intentions.

The officials requested the passenger list, confiscated our passports, and asked to see the ship’s registration, which we didn’t have printed out since our registration was just transferred to Vanuatu the day we left Male.

Ineptitude Abounds

We explained that we had run out of fuel and our one engine was on its last legs—all true. What they repeatedly asked, though, was why we didn’t notify them of our distress and ask for assistance and permission to enter their waters. Excellent point, Indian Coast Guard.

Days 13-15: The next morning, the interrogations started again, but this time with a little less vehemence. In truth, they took pity on us after seeing the shape of our boat, bringing us freshly made samosas and sweets for breakfast.

You see, these Indian officials had quickly figured out exactly who we were: a bunch of bumbling idiots, woefully unprepared and attempting a cross-ocean sail. We were unmasked.

So instead of being angry, our captors were merely befuddled.

They couldn’t quite grasp that we were a bunch of strangers, all seemingly without jobs. The concept of a digital nomad was not translating at all. Nor was the fact that we had all just met on Facebook a few weeks ago, and then embarked on a 1500+ miles sail in a catamaran that was literally falling apart.

I have to say: Point 2, Indian Coast Guard. A remarkably accurate assessment of our situation.

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No doubt the icing on the cake was the balloons in India’s national colors that we put up that morning in celebration of India’s national day. (Almost certainly my idea.) We really were just a bunch of hapless sailors instead of bandits or terrorists. Not threatening in the least. Merely foolish.

Our Prison Paradise

Because it was now India’s Independence Day, no business was being conducted. And the next day was Sunday, also a non-working day. So the paperwork for our release couldn’t start until Monday. We had time to kill.

We passed the time easily. Swimming within 50 feet of the boat (the permissible perimeter), dancing around the deck, watching movies at night under the stars, reading, napping, and even holding a few business strategy sessions. It was actually not too bad. The weather and views were perfect.

And our newfound friends, not only from the Coast Guard, but Immigration and the local police too, visited us regularly. They brought their wives and kids and even the island’s bus driver to see us.

We secured local celebrity status since the last boat to drift into their waters, piloted by 3 French sailors, was 9 months previously.

The local police chief even brought us a wild boar that had been illegally killed by poachers. With mainly vegetarians on the island (except for the poachers, I suppose), they had little use for the fresh meat. I think a pork stew was made.

Freedom!

Day 16: In record time—4 days—our Indian friends granted our freedom. With 11 signatures, including clearance from India’s Central Intelligence Agency, we were allowed to depart.

A huge high-five to Vin, who was an Indian national and therefore the one to negotiate our release. The only one allowed to disembark, he also telephoned his parents to get them to wire us money to buy more fuel and food. Champ!

As an aside, every time Vin called his folks, they asked him if he was being held hostage. He then had to explain to his parents, as well as to the Coast Guard, that we were just a bunch of fools.

Before setting off, our captors allowed 5 of us, including the 3 women, to go ashore to stock up on food before we set sail. Loaded down with copious amounts of fresh fruits and vegetables (and junk food), we set off into the sunset.

With characteristic jubilance, we danced Bollywood style on the bow of the boat, celebrating our newfound liberty as we sailed away.

Day 17: Some of us were starting to miss our pre-booked flights home, so we hot-tailed it to Thailand. Some decent wind helped us along, and just before nightfall, we spied the Thai island of Phuket. Riding in on a decent-sized storm, we still arrived too late to clear immigration.

So we stopped just long enough to pick up another of the CoBoat owners and two cases of cold beer, and then sailed on through the night to arrive at the catamaran’s new home: Yacht Haven Harbor.

Crack On

We arrived just in the nick of time, with the main cabin showing a disturbing mid-line crack on that last day.

Entering dry dock, the worn-out old girl was to receive a complete overhaul, including new wind-powered engines, solar panels, satellite connections, and a total redesign of the cabins, galley, and communal areas. I was told the refurbishing would not just be a cosmetic facelift, but a total restructuring of the vessel.

Apparently, after more than two years in dry dock, the vessel was declared unseaworthy and retired. A fitting end to our 18-day adventure sailing across the Indian Ocean. All of us sailors and the boat arrived—just barely—in one piece.

CoBoat Sailing (Mis)Adventure is a 4-part series.

• Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

• Read Part 2: Rotten Inside & Out

• Read Part 3: Man Overboard!

Lasting Impression

Throughout this 4-part series, I poked fun at all the mishaps that happened along the way. Although told in jest, in my opinion, there was a clear lack of concern for the crew’s comfort and safety from the get-go.

Some things were merely unhygienic, like the wet and moldy mattresses, broken toilets and showers, and cockroaches and mealy bugs in the food. Some were foolhardy, like swimming in open seas and deciding not to notify authorities when entering national borders.

Other incidents were far more serious, such as the broken autopilot and the bridge navigation instruments conking out one by one. This was a problem because the more experienced sailors had to take up the slack, spending hours on the bridge and straining to navigate in harsh conditions. This took its toll, and they were exhausted by the end of the trip.

Most of all, there was a lack of preparation from the beginning, including the fuel miscalculation, the decision to sail before fixing/installing/testing important pieces of equipment, and the fact that we headed to open waters without a proper safety demonstration, a man-over-board drill, or a tour of the boat.

That said, the crew was aces. I’ve never experienced such camaraderie, especially in trying circumstances. Not only was there no drama on board, but we all genuinely liked one another. Hence, the group hugs, movie nights, and heartfelt karaoke serenades.

There is no finer group of individuals I’d rather be stuck with at sea than these 7 compadres. I thank my lucky stars that we were the ones chosen to sail as the “Original Coboat Delivery Crew.”

I made friends for life, have a good tale to tell, and a righteous tan. All in all, not a bad way to cap off a summer adventure.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Want to read more about my adventures? Get the book “Adventures of a Nomad: 30 Inspirational Stories.”

Download the book here ⬇️

My favorite part of visiting a (new-to-me) country is learning about the culture. And Bhutan did not disappoint. Bhutanese society is grounded in Buddhism, rich in tradition, and swimming in superstition—it was fascinating!

Whether or not you’re a religious person or believe in the mystical, these spiritual rites can nevertheless serve as a potent reminder of the main tenets of Buddhism personal responsibility, ethical living, and mental discipline as one strives to eliminate suffering (dukkha) and achieve enlightenment (nirvana).

It is with this view that I participated in the Buddhist ceremonies that we were gifted during our time in Paro. I am grateful to have received these lessons in mindfulness and compassion.

Purification & Protection

Our first two days in the small town of Paro set the tone for our entire adventure. To kick off our travels, we were treated to a private purification ceremony by the head abbot at Druk Choeding Lhakhang, a 16th-century temple built in the heart of Paro.

Inside the two-story temple are colorful paintings and wood carvings depicting the life of the Buddha. Within this grandeur sat the head abbot. During the solemn ceremony, we each walked up to him and bowed our heads. He blessed us by reciting a prayer, then poured sacred oil on our heads.

The abbot then gave us a colored string with a knot in the middle called Sungkü, a protection cord. The string was blessed by the Lama, who recited a mantra and blew onto the knot to imbue it with spiritual power.

The knot is thought to resemble a thunderbolt, symbolizing the indestructible and enlightened nature of reality. The knot is also sometimes referred to as an “Endless Knot,” symbolizing the interconnectedness of all things.

The color of the string (blue, white, red, green, or yellow) represents the five elements of sky, air, fire, water, and earth. The cord is tied on your wrist and is said to protect the wearer against misfortune and negative energy. We were instructed to leave it on for at least 3 days.

Observant Meditation

During this private viewing, we were seated on pillows before the abbot. He proceeded to give us detailed instructions on how to meditate. Here’s a summary:

1. Keep eyes open

2. Exhale one big breath out through your mouth to expel negative energy

3. Take three slow breaths in through your mouth and out through your nose to inhale positive thoughts and pure breath

I used this breathing technique throughout my time in Bhutan, relying on it if I was stressed or wanted to dispel bad energy surrounding me. Midway through our adventure, I came to believe that learning to pacify my mind was the primary reason I came to the country.

I discovered how to maintain my own inner harmony and reset my balance despite my surroundings. This newfound meditation was one of the reasons that I came away from our trip to Bhutan with a greater sense of tranquility and peace.

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Temple Donation

Our luck continued, with the next morning ushering in Jana Chay, a celebration that only happens once a year. During the festivities, villagers come to the monastery to cleanse themselves of bad karma and receive blessings.

Since giving back to communities is central to our ethical travel ethos, I was happy that we came bearing gifts. Our donation included a 25-kilo bag of rice, milk, and snacks.

Apparently, the few tourists who do attend the festival don’t donate, so the monks were very appreciative of our gift. I was happy that our group returned the favor of their blessing, and we were granted permission to participate in the ceremony.

As is customary in Bhutan, we were first served milk tea before being invited into the hall where the ceremony was to begin. Again, escorted to a space with special viewing privileges, we sat facing the opening proceedings of the ceremony.

From our front-row vantage, we could see several generations of monks and novices, some as young as five, chanting and playing instruments. With the full monastery in attendance, the music reverberated throughout the open-air hall.

Chatting a sacred text, including mantras (a sacred sound or word) and sutras (a type of scripture), is a form of devotion. The ritual music and intonation are seen as an offering to Buddha. It is a way for monks and laypeople to prepare their minds for silent meditation.

In Bhutan, taking photos and filming is strictly prohibited within monasteries (punishable by deportation), so this was a rare opportunity to film a Bhutanese Buddhist ceremony.

Pilgrimage

As the chatting continued, villagers began to parade into the hall. Dressed in traditional clothing, which is mandatory in Bhutan, men wore their best gho (knee-length robe), and women wore a kira (skirt and jacket).

The villagers filed past displays from each of Bhutan’s 20 regional districts. Each display featured a man and woman from the district, providing each pilgrim an opportunity to pay homage to their home region. Most stood in front of their birthplace to pray and make a donation.

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Animal Parade

Rounding out the experience was a display of each animal of the Chinese zodiac. Again, each pilgrim visited their animal to make a donation and receive a blessing.

My Chinese zodiac animal is the goat. Don’t know your zodiac animal? You can look it up here.

As a very religious and superstitious society, nearly all Bhutanese participate in these festivals. But for the elderly, they are particularly important as they believe it is a chance to begin preparing for the afterlife.

Animals, in particular, are thought to be courtiers of the lord of death, so Bhutanese believe that honoring your animal will help guide you to the right path in your passing.

For me, the animals, chanting, blessings, and talismans all point to Bhutan’s vibrant mystical life. I cherish the opportunity to participate in the ceremonies, considering myself fortunate to have been given a window into this wondrous world.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 130+ countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to learn more about nomad life? Get the guide “Explore the World with Nomads: 50 Practical Tips, Interviews & Insights.”

Download the guide here ⬇️

I discovered Becky and Bryan’s Substack Active, Curious & Thirsty while reading their article Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda. (Becky’s photos are amazing!) I, too, have been lucky enough to visit the gorillas in their natural habitat and also consider it one of my best wildlife experiences.

Becky & Bryan pay for their peripatetic lifestyle by renting out their Seattle home for short-term stints and through home exchanges. Read about how they leverage their home to fund their travel here: Turn Your Home into a Travel Fund.

9 Fun Facts

• First Names: Becky & Bryan

• Age Range: 60s

• Nationality: US citizens

• Nomadic Stance: On the road about 2/3s of the year

• Last Corporate Job: Becky: Marketing Communications Director for a travel company, Bryan: CEO for a glamping company

• Current Job: Happily retired and dabbling in things that interest us

• Favorite Country: We used to say, “the one we haven’t been to yet” but we have reached a point with having visited over 100 countries each that we like a balance between discovering new countries and revisiting old favorites. Mexico and Italy are two we go back to over and over. Both offer a variety of outdoor options, great food, cool people, fascinating cultures and an easy pace – we love it all.

• Next Stop: Italy for 2.5 months

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Discovery

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2 Questions

1) You write about adventure travel with a twist. What does a “twist” mean for you?

We say our substack Active, Curious & Thirsty is about adventure travel with a twist, because we cover more than just the nuts and bolts of outdoor travel.

The twist is both a play on the “Thirsty” aspect of our writing, seeking out the lore and traditions behind regional drinks; and a nod to the “Curious” aspect, where we try to capture a deeper understanding of the culture and what it feels like to be there.

We know how powerful it can be to experience a destination actively outside. Travelers get to see the locale differently and delve a little deeper, whether that’s exploring by biking, hiking, or gliding on or beneath the water. Movement definitely changes perspective.

But we also believe there is more to experiencing a place than just the outdoor piece. We include reading to do while planning; films set in the destinations; and experiences that might resonate once people are there. We love discovering those small cultural doorways.

Then of course there is the thirsty element, where we share ways to end memorable days with a local drink, whether at a seaside hideaway in Chile, a sidreria in Spain, or a vineyard with a view.

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2) How did you decide that you wanted to travel 8 months out of the year and be in your home towns the other 4 months?

That cadence has allowed us to strike a happy medium between experiencing the world with longer sojourns in destinations abroad while also staying connected with our families and communities at home.

Seattle in August and September rivals anywhere in the world, so we make sure we are home then. We are also home for a few weeks over the winter holidays. Our daughter visits from NYC during those times, so it’s nice to have our family nest. (I prefer the term “bird watcher” to “empty nester,” but whatever you call it, that is our phase of life.)

We are lucky that Seattle is a desirable destination, so we are able to put our house to work for us (via Airbnb and HomeExchange) while we are traveling. It’s what makes this lifestyle possible for us. Clearing out most of our possessions gave us a surprising sense of lightness along with the very practical benefits of income and flexibility.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

• Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

• Read Part 2: Rotten Inside & Out

We were now 10 days into our sail from the Maldives to Thailand. And despite the boat falling apart and most of our food spoiling, we were still in good spirits.

I was particularly happy because I had the only dry cabin on the boat. In fact, most of the crew slept top-side instead of in cabins since the porthole leaks wet the beds.

It wasn’t my original cabin. I was assigned another, but when the Captain saw that mine was bigger, he commandeered it (as I guess Captains are wont to do). My new cabin was on the port side, which turned out to be a stroke of luck.

Salty Dogs

Let me take a moment to properly introduce you to the crew, then I’ll take you on a video tour of the boat.

We have Harry, who was our hero. Literally keeping us afloat. All while singing John Denver tunes. And with a pretty good voice, I might add.

We have The Captain, who was worthless. In fact, he kept berating Harry, which made the rest of the (German-speaking crew) incredibly angry, since we all acknowledged that Harry was saving our bacon.

Also, let me just add that the Captain spent most of the time away from the rest of us, holed up in his cabin watching porn. When he did come out of his lair, he always and forever had his fly down. I’m just saying. This is the man we entrusted our lives to.

The sailing crew, Uwe, Lilo, and Tess, knew things on the boat were bad, but didn’t let it shake them. Instead, they banded together to help us survive. They constantly put in the hard work to make up for the lack of skills of the rest of us. True Champions, working overtime.

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The non-sailors, me, Matthias, Heinz, and Vin. There was a pretty deep level of cluelessness in our foursome, but even we knew we were not in good hands. We basically just tried to stay out of the way.

Here’s a peek at our daily life on board the foul CoBoat.

Going Commando

As I mentioned, up to this point, it had mostly been fun & games. But what would happen next shattered the thin veneer of hunky-dory.

Day 11: Today, the crew went swimming. We were all looking to have a bit of fun after the drama of the broken generator a few days before.

The Captain introduced a new form of merriment: barefoot waterskiing behind the boat.

Apparently, you can safely hang on to a towline if the catamaran is sailing below 4 knots. Since the wind was only at 3 knots, some of us (not me – for once I showed some sense) decided to take the plunge.

The first person to try towline skiing was the Captain, who promptly lost his shorts to the pull. Now he was naked. Gross.

Lost skivvies aside, the real problem with the water skiing idea was that we left the sails up. (Actually, let’s just admit this right now—this is not a good idea under any circumstances. I mean, talk about live bait!) 🦈

So while the boat may have been slowly ploughing ahead at only 3 knots, one big gust of wind could turbo-charge the boat forward at 4-5-6 knots, which is exactly what happened.

The second person to try barefoot water skiing was my buddy Matthias. When the wind gust came, he was dragged under the water and had to let go of the rope or drown. The next thing we knew, he was bobbing in the water, waving at us as we sailed away.

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For Whom the Bell Tolls

Someone hit the Man Overboard bell. Here’s a description by the Royal Yachting Association, emphasis mine:

Mayhem ensued as the skilled crew rushed to stop the engine, take down the sails, and turn the boat around. Precious minutes ticked by.

The rest of us scrambled to the roof, some with binoculars, to try to keep our eyes on Matthias, but as the boat turned, we lost our line of sight.

For reference, here’s a map of our route. When we lost Matthias, we were somewhere between Sri Lanka and the Bay of Bengal. The water in that part of the ocean can reach depths of 4,000 meters (or more than 13,000 feet—the length of 35 American football fields).

Matthias had been in the water at least 10-12 minutes before the boat started to make the figure 8 recovering maneuvers.

And all of us standing on deck were looking out at sea in the wrong direction. Except for our hero Harry, who was the one to finally—sans binoculars—spied him bobbing in the waves.

Hook, Line, and Sinker

When we eventually hauled Matthias on board, he was cracking jokes about us landing a second fish. Although I’m not sure he fully realized the danger he was in.

And me? I didn’t find his near-death experience funny at all. In fact, I was crying afterwards and shook for days about the close call and senseless shenanigans.

Up until now, our sailing misadventure was harmless and confined to our small crew on the catamaran.

We were soon to have visitors, though. And they had machine guns pointing at us as they boarded our boat.

CoBoat Sailing (Mis)Adventure is a 4-part series.

• Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

• Read Part 2: Rotten Inside & Out

• Part 4: Coming next week!

🌍 Read More Adventures of a Nomad

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Want to read more about my adventures? Get the book “Adventures of a Nomad: 30 Inspirational Stories.”

Download the book here ⬇️

🌎 Calling all nomads, nomad-curious folks, and travelers of all stripes! ​

🤗 As a generous, outgoing, global community, I thought it would be fun to get our Nomad Life crew together and share a tip or two.

RSVP to join the fun

📅 Join us next week—Tuesday, May 5—for a LIVE call with co-host , author @ThinkFuture and @Nomads50Plus. The 9:00 pm EST time is Americas-friendly.

🛠️ Topic: What’s in your productivity toolkit? We’ll be swapping our favorite apps, programs, and services and, no doubt, learning about new tools to free up our time.

💌 Sending to the nomads we know & love. Please feel free to forward to other nomads and nomads in spirit. Really, anyone who enjoys travel, Substack, and writing!

⭐ As always, come with your stories, recommendations, and ideas to share with the community.

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About Erin: Author of Nomad Life, Erin was christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic. She has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. As a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series, she offers travel safety tips, ethical adventures, and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

About Chris: Folks come to Nomads50Plus when they realize that after age 50, our priorities change and perspective deepens, and we’re open to reimagining a new life for ourselves. ThinkFuture focuses on AI, the future of work, longevity, and location-independent living.

Ashley is the author of the Substack Practical Globetrotters, which chronicles her and her partner Levon’s global adventures and their fondness for UNESCO World Heritage Sites. As early retirees, they’ve been traveling the world since 2024 (60 countries & counting!) and answer how-to questions for the expat and nomad communities.

What I really appreciate is Ashley’s generosity. All paid subscriptions fund women and girls’ education, healthcare, and entrepreneurship. How cool is that?! Insta-subscribe for me! 🌻

9 Fun Facts

• First Name: Ashley

• Age Range: 60s

• Nationality: American

• Nomadic Stance: Full-time

• Last Corporate Job: Vice President of Business Development for a United States Agency for International Development (USAID) funded international development implementer

• Current Job: Retired/volunteer

• Favorite Country: Oooh - this is way too hard to answer! Some of our long time favorites are some of the places we’ve lived like Zambia, Kenya, and Mexico. But we have some recent favorites from our travels that we can’t wait to go back to like Poland, Laos, Malaysia, France, the Netherlands, Argentina.

• Next Stop: returning to our favorite “home base” in Mexico for a couple of months

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Adventure

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2 Questions

1) You’ve decided to center philanthropy as part of your travel. What led to your decision to donate all Substack subscriptions to nonprofit organizations?

I spent more than 30 years working in international development—mainly in economic development and job creation, global health, and rule of law/anti‑corruption—so that lens shapes almost everything about how I see the world.

My personal passion has always been supporting issues related to women and girls: access to quality education, backing women‑owned and women‑led businesses, and comprehensive health care, especially reproductive health.

Now that I’m no longer drawing a paycheck, directing all blog profits to these causes is one way I can keep actively giving to and promoting the issues I care about most for as long as I’m able to write and share our travels.

We focus on organizations where we know the founders and teams personally and/or are involved as volunteers, so we’ve seen their work on the ground and trust that the impact is real and meaningful.

2) Traveling to UNESCO World Heritage Sites is your primary focus. What is drawing you to these important places?

We’ve spent 12 years as expats and are now two years into full‑time nomadic life. That time has made it very clear what brings us the most joy: places where culture, architecture, food, nature, and local traditions are not just present but actively being protected and passed on.

UNESCO sites tend to sit at that intersection. Visiting them lets us learn about history and contemporary life in a much deeper way, which keeps travel exciting and meaningful rather than just a list of “must‑see” spots.

We’re not interested in chasing every Instagram‑famous viewpoint—those can be fun in small doses. But we are very interested in making sure our tourism helps sustain the places and communities we’re lucky enough to visit.

🧑 Read More Nomad Profiles

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

CoBoat Sailing (Mis)Adventure is a 4-part series. Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

There were a few days, when we first set sail, when we had two working engines. But apparently, the Captain stripped one when he tried to put the cat in reverse under full throttle (or something to that effect). Consequently, we spent the majority of the trip with only one engine.

We had a GPS via an iPad and computer, but the only working phone was Heinz’s. We used to call his girlfriend in Germany so she could help track our voyage.

To charge the phone, we used my backpack solar panel. On the 17-day voyage, we lost sight of land for a total of 13 days. So, a little unnerving that this was our paltry communications setup.

Nothing to See Here

Day 5: It was our second day of sailing when I learned a new word: “Scheiße” – German for you know what. Harry exclaimed it when he opened the hatch and saw that one of the hulls had taken on more than a meter (3+ feet) of water.

I was told this was no big deal. I’m no sailor, but this seemed like a big deal to me. At this point, we were well away from land, and the water was there for the remainder of the sail.

Harry and I, at this point, were becoming good friends because we sat night watch together. Frankly, I was relieved to be partnered with Harry, who was basically keeping us all afloat at this point.

I admit, we had a pretty good time, passing the time singing Country & Western songs. I later found out that the others called this the dreaded “Har-rin” shift, since our enthusiastic singing woke everyone up in the middle of the night. Oops.

Rotting Away

Day 6: This is also the day that we (Matthias and I, who were permanently grounded to the galley for matters truly beyond our control and capabilities) made a bastardized version of Haluski, Slovakia’s national dish.

Of Slovak descent, this was a family recipe of mine. After an intense discussion and despite my vehement opposition, Matthias added eggs, cheese, and chilies. Admittedly, he made the dish taste better.

We had to make this Eastern European noodle dish because we needed to eat the cabbage, which was spoiling. Lunch and dinner became an exercise in what to do with soon-to-be-rotten food. Think of it as the Open Water version of Chopped.

Sadly, my culinary skills are no better than my sailing skills, so I fell even further down the pecking order to sous chef and dishwasher. I didn’t really mind. At this point, it was obvious who was valuable and who was just along for the ride.

Our food was spoiling because the freezer kept shutting off, and the refrigerator was dodgy. All the meat and fish that we bought went bad. It was tossed overboard to feed the sharks.

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As the only vegetarian aboard, this didn’t really affect me much. The entire crew joined me in getting most of our protein from eggs, lentils, and peanut butter.

Day 7: We were now sailing close to the Sri Lankan coast. It was also the day we made the fateful decision not to stop by the island to buy more fuel. More on this later.

It was around this time that I also learned that we didn’t have an autopilot to navigate. Because I didn’t know about autopilot, I didn’t miss it and assumed everyone navigated at night by the stars and moon. Or, in inclement weather, by the lights of passing cargo ships.

Back in the galley, we made bread pudding with 20 loaves of *slightly* moldy bread. Tess, who was taking on more of the kitchen duties from hapless Matthias and me, added some chopped dates and sprinkled cinnamon on top to cover it all up. It was a crowd favorite.

Day 8: This was a rough night at sea, with 40-knot winds and 25-foot waves. The cat usually sailed at between 4 and 7 knots, but this time we hit a speedy 16 knots (18+ mph) under Vin’s steering. Reminder: Vin was one of the non-sailors. He was visibly shaken after that night.

Some video of rough seas. This was later in the voyage, and not nearly the worst of it, but you get the idea.

During the high winds, we lost a life preserver, a section of sunshade, and part of the bow. To be fair, this front decking was just a temporary fix to cover a portion of the ship left open when unsafe netting was taken down before we left. So it wasn’t, you know, super secure to begin with. In fact, we were told early on not to hang out in the port-side netting.

Our trip was starting to resemble an episode of Deadliest Catch, which was my favorite show—when I watched it from the comfort of my couch.

Day 9: Another piece of important equipment bites the dust! Today was the day the generator broke, and it was a BIG DEAL. We had already lost one engine, and we needed the generator to power the second remaining engine.

Without it, we would only have wind power, and the promised sailing-friendly forecast wasn’t panning out, which is why we were so dependent on continuously running the engine and fast depleting our fuel supply.

Also, without a generator, we couldn’t use any of the electrical instruments on board, including the ship’s lights, the water filter, the water pump (important because of that constant influx of water in the one hull), and the INS system.

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INS stands for Internal Navigation System, a thingamabob that comprises a computer, motion sensors, and rotation sensors to continuously calculate a ship’s position, orientation, direction, and speed of movement.

It shows the location of ships in relation to one another and helps avoid collisions at sea. Think air-traffic control. An important gadget.

Everyone was problem-solving on the spot. Our backup plan was to use the iPad powered with spare batteries from our personal computers and my solar-charged battery. This would provide 9 hours of backup electricity to get us through the night.

Luckily, after hours and hours of sweaty hammering (and quite a few more “Scheiße”), Harry got the generator to work – just as the sun was setting. Whew!

Feast or Famine

Day 10: We thought we’d be catching lots of fish along the way, but our bad luck continued, and the lines remained empty. So when we finally caught a fish, it was a big deal. The multi-talented Tess landed it, cleaned it, and cooked it up. I heard it was pretty tasty.

Not so tasty were the mushrooms found growing under the cabin seats. It was the subject of much eye-rolling from the more experiences sailors, as fungal growth indicated a level of neglect not often seen onboard. I admit, it was kinda gross.

Up until now, it had all been fun & games. Unfortunately, things were soon to become a matter of life and death.

CoBoat Sailing (Mis) Adventure is a 4-part series. Read Part 1: Maldives to Thailand

🌍 Read More Adventures of a Nomad

If you like this post, please leave a comment or share it with others. This will help more readers find my work. ❤️

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Want to read more about my adventures? Get the book “Adventures of a Nomad: 30 Inspirational Stories.”

Download the book here ⬇️

Nicola is the author of the Substack GlobeFoxing, which is less about where to go and more about why to go. As a travel advisor, Nicola helps forge deep connections between people and places, creating thoughtful itineraries that go beyond checklist tourism.

I was introduced to Nicola’s writing via his collaboration with Linda Jackson of Shellphone Chronicles and their pen-pal series: From Sea-Level to Cruising Altitude. So love to see these types of collaborations between nomads!

9 Fun Facts

• First Name: Nicola

• Age Range: 30s

• Nationality: Italian

• Nomadic Stance: Part-time

• Last Corporate Job: Selling chocolate and pet food

• Current Job: Founder of GlobeFoxing Travel Advisory

• Favorite Country: Australia (Although it’s a very unfair question!)

• Next Stop: Greece

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Learning

  👀 Take a free peek at the nomad life

2 Questions

1) You center your multiple identities in your writing. How do these identities influence how you interact in the world?

Having moved around the world from a young age, my perspective regarding identity is often at odds with the mainstream – especially when it comes to national identity.

I’m from multiple places at the same time and believe that is a strength when traveling, as what is different intrigues me rather than scares me.

2) As a traveler with young kids, do you have any concerns as a parent?

I wouldn’t say I have concerns about traveling with my young son – if anything, I have concerns about him not being able to see the world.

Having said that, I do have a totally different perspective on travel than I did before becoming a parent. I’ve realized that it is no longer just about us (my wife and me), but mostly about him now.

The journey has to be to his liking and, by extension, it will then be to ours as well. If he is not happy or is stressed by the travel, then we won’t enjoy it as much either. I want him to enjoy exploring the world as much as I do, and I’m mindful that we should get him there at his own pace.

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If you like this post, please leave a comment or share it with others. This will help more readers find my work. ❤️

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

Back in 2015, a friend sent me an ad on Facebook featuring the launch of a co-working space aboard a boat. His message to me: “This sounds like you.”

He was right. Within 24 hours, I wrote to the Captain requesting to sign on for the maritime adventure. Despite listing my crew skills as “none,” I bought my one-way ticket to the Maldives even before I heard back that I had been accepted on board.

CoBoat Here I Come

CoBoat was billed as the world’s first coworking catamaran. The 82-foot retrofitted catamaran was to circumnavigate the globe, with space for 20 nomads to live and work aboard. It was to combine life, work, and play—all while plying the seven seas.

Here’s the original description:

“Coboat wants the catamaran to be a relaxing yet productive and creative space where different teams can bounce ideas off one another and work efficiently with little distraction in a beautiful, serene, and tranquil atmosphere.

You can expect co-living intensity, a community of like-minded people, new perspectives, changing environments, and to live in your discomfort zone, along with tons of sun and fun through sailing exploration.”

CoBoat even had a social mission:

“Designed for self-sustainability, Coboat will use desalinated seawater and employ fishery practices with little impact on the ocean’s marine population and surrounding environment.

Whenever possible, we will sail. If the winds die down, we will power up our engines – using stored energy. Clean and quiet. Just like our electricity. As green as it gets. No oils or fossil fuels on board.”

Digital nomad nirvana. Sign me up!

The Delivery Crew

Luckily, the Captain, Karsten, accepted me and my limited maritime skills. The only American chosen to join the “Original Delivery Crew” for Coboat.

An intrepid group of 8 of us signed on (9 total with the Captain) to sail the newly purchased (but 18-year-old) catamaran from Malé, the capital of the Maldives, to the southern Thai island of Phuket. We were 3 women and 5 men, hailing from Germany, Austria, India, New Zealand and me, representing the U.S.

We gathered the night before our sail, and threw ourselves a bon voyage party. As we went around the table that night, all 8 of us admitted we were looking for an “adventure,” which we defined as:

• Something we’ve never done before

• Elements that would stretch our boundaries

• Moving toward a destination without knowing how we’d get there

• An event where you can’t control the outcome

Well, we certainly found the adventure we were looking for!

*Rock Star* Crew

But before we get into the thick of it, let me introduce you to the crew and the real hero of this story: Harry, our First Officer. Harry was an Austrian living in Turkey with a Serbian wife, whom he only got to see sometimes.

There is no doubt in anyone’s mind that it was Harry who saved the day (every day, in fact) by fixing every single piece of equipment that broke in transit. (Except the first engine—try as he might—it was beyond repair).

Other members of this band of merry men were Lilo, Uwe, and Tess, all skilled sailors who took the lion’s share of the responsibility for sailing the boat at night and in rough conditions. They were each level-headed, accomplished sailors, and we were lucky to have them on board.

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The rest of us, admittedly non-sailors, Vin, Heinz, Matthias, and I did what we could to support the main crew. Truthfully, I was the least useful on the trip, but usually fairly cheery.

I spent a lot of time dancing around and trying to organize things like Talk Like a Pirate Day and Un-Birthday parties. (Look—you do what you can under the circumstances. I couldn’t just conjure up naval skills.)

Here, Harry and I are partaking in an impromptu dance party:

Below is our daily log:

Shop Till You Drop

Day 1: I arrived about midnight after 4 flights connecting San Francisco to Malé, the capital of the Maldives, about 48 hours of travel. My new crewmate Vin went to the airport to meet me, but because I wasn’t expecting a pick up, I made my own way to the boat via bus and taxi.

We completely missed one another, and Vin was stranded at the airport at closing, having to find his own way back. Looking back, this was an inauspicious beginning.

Day 2: Shopping day in Malé to buy groceries. With 5 of us selecting produce and bartering, it was a very slow process. Ever the team player, I elected to stay put and “watch” our growing pile of purchases.

While the shoppers made trips back and forth between the market and docks, I basked in the sun, making friends with the Bangladeshi dock workers, who fed me watermelon and coconut all afternoon.

Back on the boat, we all started cleaning. This is when I realized that scrubbing is the real definition of sailing. Although in truth, since I was one of the last to arrive, I had already missed a boat-load of nasty duties.

Day 3: Shopping day in Malé for boat equipment, like a foot pump for the dinghy (not to be found), electrical cables, and assorted widgets.

I can’t tell you how exhausting this shopping expedition was. We went to every boat store on the island (sometimes 2 or 3 times) trying to track down the necessary gear.

Photos flew between the ship and shore in an effort to convey exactly the right bolt and screw, with new requests constantly coming in.

Part of the reason the shopping expedition was so tiring is that Malé is one of the most densely populated cities in the world. The island, only 5.8 km2 (about 3.5 miles square), is surprisingly modern and packed with traffic.

It also may have been particularly busy because the island nation was celebrating 50 years of independence that week. The capital city was festooned with bunting and lights in the flag’s colors of red, green, and white, turning the tiny metropolis into a miniature Christmas card (albeit with sweltering heat, sari-wearing women, and calls to prayer).

Launch & Learn

Day 4: Launch day. As a devoutly Muslim country run by Sharia law, Maldivians pray at least 4 times a day. In fact, all the shops close between 12:30 and 2:00 pm for afternoon prayers. Consequently, we had to wait until the late afternoon to buy a new battery for the boat.

As we waited for this crucial part, we circled the main island, during which time I took my turn at the wheel for about 10 minutes. My first time driving (steering?) a boat!

That night, we officially launched our sailing adventure. As we headed into open water, at about 8:00 pm, we all huddled on the front mats, in total darkness, to receive our 90-second safety briefing. I asked if the not-fully-inflated dinghy was the lifeboat.

Luckily no. There were two rafts situated at the back of the cat. This question, however, clearly demonstrated my utter lack of knowledge about all things boat.

Here’s a beautiful photo of the Maldives, which I didn’t actually get to see since our inter-island tour was canceled by the Captain because we were late departing.

Taking the Helm

It was that night that we received our first shift assignments. Matthias and I were to take the 2:30-5:00 am shift, and I was to be the lead sailor. What?! I had only driven the boat for 10 minutes under supervision; I was certainly not qualified to drive the boat at night.

(You would completely agree if you have ever driven with me in a car. Driving is not one of my finer skills. I drive as I talk. Very fast with lots of starts and stops.)

I strenuously objected, noting that Matthias and I were part of the non-sailor bunch, and so Harry said he would sit the shift with Matthias and me. Unfortunately, it was during this shift, that the first engine pooped out and Harry and the Captain spent the entire time trying to fix it (on a rolling boat in near-total darkness).

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Around and Around We Go

While Harry and Karsten were occupied under deck, Matthias and I were in charge up top. We did the best we could in the dark, given our 10-minute lesson.

The next morning, when we woke up, groggy from the night shift, we were roundly ridiculed. The rest of the crew was laughing at a thingy with a green line that showed we had sailed in three circle-oblongs-ovals throughout the night.

After that, Matthias and I were demoted and separated, never to work on the bridge together again. Frankly, we both were relieved.

As Good As Dead

I showed up for that my first shift wearing the life jacket from my cabin. I did this because Lilo told me the day before that you must always wear a life vest at night, and I wisely decided early on to listen to everything Lilo told me.

I was again ribbed, but how was I to know that we had special life jackets to wear while on shift with transmitters or transponders (or something?) on them. It was becoming pretty apparent I was out of my depth here.

Note: The one (and only) piece of safety advice given by the Captain before setting sail was that if you fall in the water during the night, you’re as good as dead. Duly noted.

Author’s Note: Since our adventure, Harry has passed away. He was a good man, devoted friend, loud singer, and trusted sailor. The world was better with him in it. RIP.

CoBoat Sailing (Mis)Adventure is a 4-part series.

• Read Part 2: Rotten Inside & Out

🌍 Read More Adventures of a Nomad

If you like this post, please leave a comment or share it with others. This will help more readers find my work. ❤️

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Want to read more about my adventures? Get the book “Adventures of a Nomad: 30 Inspirational Stories.”

Download the book here ⬇️

📣 Calling all nomads, nomad-curious folks, and travelers of all stripes! ​

💌 This is your invitation to join me and our guest co-host of Shellphone Chronicles, in our friendly nomad circle on April 21 @ 7:00 pm AEST. Timing chosen specifically for our Asia-Pacific nomads!

RSVP to Join the Fun

🫟 Topic: All Things Art: How do you channel your creativity? What feeds your artistic passion?

💛 Your Invitation: Sending to the nomads we know & love. Please feel free to forward to other nomads and nomads in spirit. Really, anyone who enjoys travel!

➡️ RSVP Today: For the call details & reminders.

RSVP for Call Details

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About Erin & Nomad Life: Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

About Linda & Shellphone Chronicles: People come to Shellphone Chronicles for vicarious adventure, and enjoy tall tales from the high seas, beautiful photos, original artwork, and occasional poetry. 🩵 Two people with a love of adventure, one big sailing yacht.

I love Stina’s lust for life. Writing the Substack Far From Here, her zest comes through in all her writing; from her artful newsletter and colorful inspiration boards, to her city (Stockholm, Cairo) & country (Senegal, Tunisia, Sri Lanka) guides.

My favorite Stina piece is her hilarious post: “Voodoo people: A beheaded chicken and promises of a better mental health in Benin.” I’m not going to spoil it for you. Go read it today!

9 Fun Facts

• First Name: Stina

• Age Range: 40s

• Nationality: Swedish

• Nomadic Stance: Episodic

• Last Corporate Job: none

• Current Job: Designer and nurse

• Favorite Countries: Egypt and Lebanon

• Next Stop: El Salvador

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Unexpected meetings

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2 Questions

1) In your writing and travel, you seem to be drawn to design and color. How does a place’s aesthetics shape how you view the world?

Good observation! Design, art, and architecture are the foundation of most of my travels. It’s how I get familiar with a place and try to understand it.

I love aesthetically beautiful spots in general, but through art, it also becomes easier for me to understand the joys, the struggles, and the hope of the people who call that place home.

Take Belfast, for example. The murals tell the full story of The Troubles. In Mumbai, I was amazed by the beauty of the Art Deco buildings. I’m obsessed with castles. I’m very much not a royalist, but I adore lavish palaces with coloured glass decorations and lots of gold. I’m easy like that : )

2) You’ve decided to center travel in your life (with your upcoming sabbatical). What led to that decision, and how are you navigating the transition?

I’ve travelled for long periods of time over the years. It all started as a solo backpacker in 2003—what a time (he he). Later, I worked as a freelance designer and art director for many years, which meant I could be based wherever in the world I wished. It was brilliant.

Then I had a midlife crisis, as one does, and decided to become a nurse. That meant staying in Sweden for a few years to study and work.

Now I’m ready to take off again. I’ll be travelling for the coming six months, starting in Central America, then spending two months in the north of Sweden (it’s amazing this time of year), followed by Australia and Southeast Asia for a bit. I’ll round it all off with some nurse volunteer work in West Africa. Yalla! Let’s go! I’m so excited!

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

Last week, my friend Carmen asked if I wanted to go see Muay Thai. Her friend, a young woman, was fighting for the first time, and she was going to go and support her.

While I’m generally a “Hell yeah!” in support of women taking bold action, this time, I declined. The world is inundated with violence right now (well, always, really), and frankly, I didn’t want to subject myself to more of it.

In addition, one of the lasting memories I’ve had of Thailand over the years was attending a Muay Thai event in which children participated. The images have stayed with me for more than a decade.

National Sport & Cultural Heritage

Sometimes called Thai boxing, Muay Thai is a martial art and full-contact sport that uses fists, elbows, knees, and shins to strike an opponent. The winner is the fighter who lands the most full-contact blows.

Muay Thai is not only the country’s national sport, but it is also deeply ingrained in Thai culture. The word Muay, derived from Sanskrit, means “unity.” The word Thai comes from the word Tai or “free.” Muay Thai has been around since the 7th century.

The Thai government has been lobbying the International Olympic Committee to include it as a new Olympic sport. While short-listed for the 2028 Games in Los Angeles, it was yet again denied. (Passed over in favor of flag football, no less.)

Financial Underpinnings

Enthusiasm for Muay Thai is increasing both as an amateur and professional sport. The Bangkok Post estimates that Muay Thai gambling is worth 40 billion baht annually (US$1.2 billion). Price fixing is also common, with fighters earning between 60,000-150,000 Thai baht (US$1,800-$4,500) for throwing a fight.

This financial motive doesn’t just incentivize fight organisers, but parents as well. Thousands of Thai families are thought to rely on the income from child boxing. In fact, studies suggest that half of the children who fight contribute to their family’s finances. (Source: US Department of Labor, the National Youth Office, and the International Labour Organization (ILO).

Some of the documentaries I watched this week contend that, compared to other choices, namely working in a sweatshop or in the sex trade, Muay Thai may be the better bet for children from poor families. This is, indeed, sobering. Surely there must be other options that make educating a child worth it for families struggling to survive.

Child Fighters

In Thailand, an estimated 200,000 to 300,000 minors under the age of 16 participate in Muay Thai training and competitions. Many Thais view Muay Thai with deep cultural pride, and as a way to build discipline and confidence—much like any organized sport in countries around the world.

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But because of the brutality of the sport, it also poses significant health and safety risks. Several factors signficantly impact child welfare. For instance, children:

• Start training as early as age 4 or 5.

• Sometimes live and train at gyms instead of attending school.

• Compete in stadium fights, often without headgear or mouthguards.

Child Protection & Welfare

Thai medical professionals have advocated for laws limiting children from fighting based on research that shows a long-term negative impact on their health. Some reports show that children can experience serious injuries, including memory issues and brain damage, similar to those of traffic accident victims.

One particularly disturbing study, conducted by Ramathibodi Hospital’s Advanced Diagnostic Imaging Centre (AIMC), studied 300 child boxers under the age of 15 with at least 2-5 years of experience vs. 200 children who do not box.

The findings revealed that child boxers not only sustain brain injuries, but they also have a lower IQ. The child boxers’ intelligence was ~10 points lower than average, and the lower levels correlated with the length of training.

Unfortunately, the Thai government rejected the report’s findings, stating that it didn’t show negative health effects on the child fighters.

There have been repeated attempts to ban child boxing or to require the children to be at least 12 years old. Laws have also been introduced limiting the sport’s all-body contact, such as “no shots to the head,” but all legislative measures have failed.

Currently, there is a vague law prohibiting minors from being allowed to risk their health by practising Muay Thai. There is also a stipulation that children under the age of 15 need parental consent to fight. Yet these safeguards are routinely ignored. In 2018, Anucha Tasakoko, a 13-year-old boy, died of a brain haemorrhage in the ring.

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Haunting Memories: Photo Essay

I attended my first and only Muay Thai event about 15 years ago. At first, I wasn’t going to go, but then I relented, rationalizing that it was the choice of the fighter to get into the ring.

I was expecting there to be some violence, blood, and brutality. I wasn’t expecting to see children participating. Of the 9 bouts I saw, 4 featured kids. Supposedly all fighters were at least 7 years old. Although many of these children look younger to me.

Apparently, I was the only one upset by the violent spectacle. All around me, the crowd was wild during the matches, with bets being placed on the child most likely to be victorious.

And it wasn’t just local Thais enjoying the sport. Another tourist sitting next to me had brought his 6-year-old daughter. She was obviously traumatized to see her fellow first-graders being beaten up. Even so, the father-daughter duo stayed for all the matches.

After my initial shock, I deliberated about leaving. I chose to stay and document what I saw. During the evening, this is what I witnessed:

1. The children wore no safety gear or head protection.

2. One of the youngest children was knocked unconscious, most likely suffering a concussion.

3. The children’s mothers were in their corners screaming for them to fight harder.

4. The children were each paid 200 baht, the equivalent of $6, for their performance in the ring.

The adult matches were no less brutal. One man broke a leg, another broke his nose. And one unfortunate Canadian combatant (the only foreigner on that night’s roster) was knocked down 3 times. Although it looked like he was hit in the groin several times (which is legal in Muay Thai).

What to do?

Coming from a more economically developed country and a privileged background, I can’t fully understand the motivation (or desperation) of the parents who encourage their children to box.

But there are global standards for protecting children. And mandating that children participating in Muay Thai — at least wear adequate head protection — should be one of them. While still dangerous, there is a way for Muay Thai to evolve into a safer sport for children.

In the UK, where children also participate in Muay Thai tournaments, there are rules to protect kids. For instance, head shots are illegal in children’s fights, and full padding is required. This is certainly a start.

Interested in learning more? Here are several documentaries on Muay Thai’s child boxers:

• Thailand’s Child Boxers Fight for Their Futures, Nightline, 2014

• Child thaiboxers: A fighting chance, DW Documentary, 2018

• Kids Are Still Fighting Muay Thai, Even After the Death of a Young Boy, VICE News, 2019

Author’s Note: Before I get too precious here, I acknowledge that American football and soccer (as well as other sports) can also be harmful to children and teenagers, specifically regarding traumatic brain injuries.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to learn more about nomad life? Get the guide “Explore the World with Nomads: 50 Practical Tips, Interviews & Insights.”

Download the guide here ⬇️

As a nomad who usually travels solo, I am coming to rely on nomad-focused festivals and itineraries to support my need for connection. I find these global events a great way to build and maintain friendships.

Three years ago, I attended my first festival: Bansko Nomad Fest (BNF). BNF was the original nomad-inspired festival and remains the largest, bringing together 700-800 nomads and nomad-curious folks from around the world.

BNF’s main focus is a 2-track professional conference with speakers presenting the latest developments in technology (a lot of AI), finance (crypto is also popular), global citizenship & flag theory, health & wellness, and all aspects of the travel business.

This year, I’ll be presenting my favorite topic: Travel Safety & Self Defense. Come see me in this adorable village nestled in the Bulgarian mountains from June 20-30, 2026.

If you’re thinking about joining the fun, be sure and register with the NOMADLIFE code to receive a €25 discount.

BNF ➡️ €25 off with NOMADLIFE code

Nomad Train & Nomad Cruises

BNF is just one of the festivals, workations, and camps dedicated to bringing nomads together. There are also nomad-specific travel opportunities, including the Nomad Train and Nomad Cruises.

I went on the Nomad Train through Central Asia last summer. Not only did we explore this iconic region by rail, but I also made life-long friends.

This year, Nomad Train is heading back to the Central Asian countries of Uzbekistan & Kazakhstan, as well as Tibet & China.

Check out Nomad Train’s upcoming itineraries. If you’re interested in booking, receive a €100 discount by using the code: NOMADLIFE.

Nomad Train ➡️ €100 off with NOMADLIFE

2026-2027 Nomad Life Calendar

Plan your festival meet-ups with our 2026-2027 Nomad Event Calendar, live on our home page.

Event listings are updated several times a month, so be sure to check out the events if you’re looking to meet some new nomad friends!

📅 View Nomad Life Calendar

p.s. If you see an event you want to attend, just ask me, and I’m sure I can get you a discount code. 😉

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

➡️ Subscribe to Nomad Life for free

Jill is a multi-faceted creative: writing, painting, designing clothes and accessories. As someone without an artist’s bone in my body, I find all this talent so cool and would love to view the world through an artist’s eye.

As a subscriber to Jill’s Artistic Voyages Substack, my favorite article is one entitled “Sometimes the Best Travel Decision is Not to Travel At All,” where Jill talks about the decision to cancel a trip to Europe.

Instead, she and her partner, Chris, decide to stay in Canada for a season to prioritize their physical and mental health and protect their wallet. I appreciate this candid discussion about the realities of living a nomad life.

9 Fun Facts

• First Name: Jillian

• Age Range: 40s

• Nationality: Canadian

• Nomadic Stance: Full-time

• Last Corporate Job: none

• Current Job: Artist / Writer

• Favorite Country: Montenegro

• Next Stop: Hopefully Ecuador

• What do you like best about the nomadic life? Freedom

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2 Questions

1. You and your partner travel together. Is it hard to be together 24/7? How do you both make it work?

We are lucky in that we both prefer to hang out with each other. We work out conflicts quickly and don’t let annoyances build up.

Our conflicts are never focused on our nomadic life necessarily, they are more to do with communication problems. We don’t argue over where we go or how we live this lifestyle.

We have money stresses at times, and that can lead to arguments and heated discussions, but it’s rare. Mostly, we just try and talk things out as soon as they happen, so things don’t build up.

2. You’ve recently decided to take a break and “stay put” for a few months. What led to this decision to pause your nomad life?

We haven’t stopped nomading, we are just doing it back in Canadá. Family commitments are keeping us in our home country for now.

There is a big difference nomading here in Canada because everything is so expensive. We really have to work at securing situations where we are volunteering or housesitting in exchange for accommodation. We don’t run into the same financial problems elsewhere as we do here.

One advantage though, is that we can work legally here. This allows us to make larger chunks of money than our earnings online, which helps to get us back out.

Also transportation is really poor here. So often we find ourselves far from anywhere and have to be at peace with where we are and not going anywhere.

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to read more Nomad Profiles? Get the bonus edition to the guide—Meet 10 More Nomads: Bonus Interviews 11-20.

Download the Bonus Issue here ⬇️

He told me, “We come because we crave intimacy.” I admit, I was a little surprised by the frankness and vulnerability of his statement.

We had just met, eating our breakfast at a communal table. The hotel we’re staying at is hosting a Zouk festival for the week, and he’s one of the festival participants. I had never heard of Zouk.

My new friends explained it as a more intricate form of the dance Bachata, which originated in the Dominican Republic. Zouk emerged as a distinct dance in the 1990s, in the French Antilles of Martinique and Guadeloupe, and incorporates other styles of music, like R’n’B, pop, and hip hop. Brazilian zouk is also a thing.

To give you some perspective, here’s some Zouk in action.

As we ate our scrambled eggs, I was politely asking some questions about the festival, not really investing too much in the conversation. But then I introduced myself as a writer, and he suggested I write a piece about Zouk. Consequently, I was pressed into acting like a writer and appearing interested in the world around me (when really I was only wondering if they had replenished the papaya).

I like to dance, so the topic of Zouk mildly interested me, but his comment on intimacy I found fascinating.

My original question had been: What drew you to learn Zouk?

Mind you, he had already explained that he works about 6 months out of the year in his home country of Australia, and once he earns enough, he travels to the next Zouk festival.

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So, he is a bona fide fan, fashioning his life around pursuing the dance Zouk around the world. He told me he had traveled to festivals all over, including the Big Island of Hawaii, Bali, Rio, and now, here, in Koh Phangan, Thailand.

Back to the question at hand of what drew him to this specific dance. Zouk, he explained, is all about intimacy. It’s considered a technical dance, like a tango, where the partners hold each other’s bodies very close.

A Dutch woman, who was also at our table, agreed with his description of the intimacy of the dance. Adding that “Glue glue” is the common refrain from instructors to their pupils to try and convey how close partners should be. Basically, your bodies should be stuck together.

Here’s a couple glued together as they Zouk.

Cue The Anxiety

I then asked the table about the most challenging component of the dance and my breakfast buddy replied, “the anxiety.” Again, his answer gave me pause.

I grew up dancing from the age of 3 and love the freedom of moving my body to music. I never think of dancing as something to cause anxiety. To me it’s the opposite—it helps me release anxiety.

While I took ballet, jazz, and tap dancing classes, tap was always my favorite. I loved the spastic, rapid-fire nature of those tap shoes rhythmically slapping on the floor. (I’ve always been a girl with a lot of energy.)

As an aside, every year for my birthday in October I do something I’ve never done before. In the early years, it was sky diving, learning to scuba dive, rock climbing, and competing in a dressage competition.

As the years progressed, my “one thing” became a little tamer (actually, I didn’t become any tamer; I was running out of adventure sports to try). This past year, I decided to dance every day, moving my body for at least 3 songs. Like most annual resolutions, I’ve fallen off my goal, so this may be the universe giving me a not-so-subtle nudge to get moving again.

But I digress. Back to zouk-induced anxiety.

My breakfast buddy went on to explain that at the beginning, the Zouk lead has a lot of pressure to perform. And then, as you progress in the dance, the pressure switches to the Zouk follower.

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Our Dutch pal politely asked for the salt, then added that as a follower no one likes to go to a festival and not be asked to dance. She said the nightmare is the proverbial high school dance with girls lining the wall of the gym waiting to be asked to the dance floor.

My new friends then told me that to combat dance anxiety, students enroll in private classes, which can offer them specific instruction on how to improve.

The whole Zouk world was starting to sound a lot less fun and a lot more heavy, maybe even a substitute for therapy if you ask me. But who am I really? Except for a girl waiting for more fresh fruit to be cut.

Breakfast buffets aside, the conversation stuck with me. And I began to realize it was this very honest question of intimacy that I kept chewing on.

One of the drawbacks of the nomad life is not having a ready community, and with that, a dating pool. This is why there are so many hook-ups at nomad festivals (seriously, a huge reason why people go), and the festival’s speed dating night is one of the most popular events.

In fact, I met my last boyfriend at a festival, we dated for 10 days, then I was off to Albania (as one does). He then had a choice to follow me or return home. He followed a few weeks later, and we ended up traveling together for a few years.

But nomads are like that. And since festivals are usually only 1-2 weeks, fortune favors the brave.

Interested in going to Bansko Nomadfest (June 20-30, 2026)? It is the largest nomad festival in the world with more than 800 nomads attending. Be sure and use my code NOMADLIFE for a €25 discount – I’ll be there!)

Back to the question at hand: How do you find intimate relationships while traveling around the world?

In addition to festival hook-ups, Nomad Soulmates is a community dedicated to helping full-time travelers find meaningful connections. There’s also good ‘ole Tinder. Many of my friends update their location to their latest country and go out on dates with local folks (and sometimes other nomads).

I had a good friend who met her current partner while on a Tinder date in Armenia. I’ve had other friends go on Tinder dates in cities like Tbilisi and Accra. And I know one of our fellow Nomad Train passengers updated his profile with every stop along the Silk Route.

I commend each of these friends for putting themselves out there and being willing to go on (endure?) dates to find intimacy on the road. Especially because I look at intimacy as a vital component of good health, much like mental health and emotional health, with connection, touch, and sex important factors for an overall healthy mind and body.

I also applaud my breakfast buddy for his candor, willingness to travel the world, and learn a complicated dance, all as a means to sate his desire for intimacy. I can think of a lot more unsavory reasons to embark on world travel than the honest and earnest pursuit of finding connections that stick like “glue.”

Interested in reading more about how nomads form connections? Here’re a few nomad profiles for you:

• Dating as a Nomad - Meet Lauren

• Finding Friends as a Nomad - Meet Astrid

• Nurturing Community as a Nomad - Meet Deana & Jeff

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious to learn more about nomad life? Get the guide “Explore the World with Nomads: 50 Practical Tips, Interviews & Insights.”

Download the guide here ⬇️

This is your invitation to join our friendly nomad circle during an online meetup on April 1 @ 10:00 am EST.

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🧼 April’s Topic: Spring Cleaning - What’s the one thing you’re going to purge from your luggage this year? Anything you’re going to add?

🎪 We are a big, open tent where everyone is respectful and welcome. Come and make some new friends today!

💜 Your Invitation: Sending to the nomads I know & love. Please feel free to forward to other nomads and nomads-in-spirit. Really, anyone who enjoys travel!

⬇️ RSVP Today: So you’ll be given the call details & reminders.

RSVP for April 1 @10:00 am EST

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Christened “Wander Woman” by National Geographic, Erin Michelson has traveled to 135 countries & all 7 continents. She is a professional speaker and author of the Nomad Life™ series of curated trips and travel guides, including the #1-ranked Explore the World with Nomads.

Curious about the world and living the nomad life?! This is your chance to take a peek and meet members of our Nomad Life Community through our online chats and live calls. Join the fun today!